Warsaw's Shadows, where splendour meets survival
Amidst the splendour of Warsaw’s new architecture, the scars of war remain, poverty, trauma, and history persist, shaping the city's enduring resilience and resistance.
Due to the lack of a feasible connection to Kiev, I stayed an extra day in Warsaw. Since Michael did not respond to my SMS or phone call, I explored the city on my own. I was very glad I did, as I learned a lot about Warsaw’s past and felt an intuitive link between the city’s history and the war in Ukraine
The day began with my decision to take a city walk without using any other means of transport. The slow pace allowed me to absorb more details of the scenery. Bright daylight, a harbinger of a very hot day, accompanied me as I made my way to my first stop: Warsaw Central Station. This late communist-era station, embedded in a postmodern environment, marked the beginning of my exploration. Instead of the classic communist buildings I had expected, the area was dominated by high-tech structures. The architect and construction company seemed intent on creating an impression of splendour and magnificence, which, later in the day, made sense to me.
Amidst all this wealth, I noticed a significant amount of poverty. People under the influence of drugs and alcohol wandered aimlessly, some begging, others rummaging through garbage cans. It left me feeling both embarrassed and powerless. Poverty always affects me deeply, and once again, I found myself counting my blessings, grateful that I have never had to survive under such conditions.
I continued walking, heading in the direction I imagined would lead to the city centre. The city, much like parts of Rotterdam, seemed to have been largely destroyed during World War II. Along the way, I came across the towering 'Palace of Culture and Science,' a Stalin-era building surrounded by green spaces. This art deco structure, complete with a large concert hall, stood in stark contrast to the modern skyscrapers and older buildings on the streets nearby. I couldn’t help but wonder how the Polish people felt about this building, whether they viewed it with indifference or reluctance.
As I made my way toward the centre, near the Wisla River, I stumbled upon a commemorative plaque marking where the Warsaw Ghetto’s border once ran. A small ledge in the ground served as a stark reminder of what had once stood there. The physical existence of the Ghetto had been completely erased from the earth. It felt surreal, even frightening. I thought, ‘This is just the tip of the iceberg,’ a glimpse of Warsaw’s darker historical layers.
My walk continued, and I found myself at a commemoration event for a famous partisan leader near the high-rise ‘PAST-a’ building, which had been destroyed and rebuilt. Although I didn’t understand the speeches, I grasped the significance of the occasion. High-ranking Polish military officers and officials were present, adding a solemn weight to the moment.
I moved through a beautiful park and ended up in one of the city’s main shopping areas. In front of the centre, I saw part of an old palace, which, as far as I understood, contained the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Soldiers marched around it, honouring it throughout the day. It was an impressive sight.
Eventually, I arrived at a boulevard and decided to visit two museums. One focused on Polish citizens who aided Jews during the war, while the other highlighted Polish diplomats who forged documents on a large scale to help Jewish people escape. It was astounding to see how lives were saved with nothing more than paper, pen, and stamp. I took my time to carefully examine both exhibitions, which are part of an ongoing research project.
The exhibition on Polish citizens who aided their Jewish neighbours displayed detailed maps of Warsaw’s districts, showcasing the well-organised structures of the German police and secret services. Survivor and descendant narratives brought to life the cold-blooded manner in which the Germans hunted down these Polish collaborators. Hans Frank, the General-Governor, had ordered the death penalty for anyone helping the Jewish population—the harshest penalty in Europe for such aid. Despite this terrifying threat, many Poles displayed immense courage. When caught, they were tortured and executed, a horrifying reminder of the occupying forces’ desire to crush any form of resistance through mortal agony.
I struck up a conversation with a staff member about the exhibition.
He told me, “The research is still ongoing and is highly valued by our citizens. It helps reconstruct history and offers a more complete understanding of our ancestors' efforts to help the Jews.”
Our conversation shifted to the present, and I asked him,
“Why do I feel like World War II is omnipresent in the public spaces here, like the commemoration I saw earlier and the numerous memorials around the city?”
He thought for a moment before replying, “The entire city centre was destroyed. Only this building and a nearby church survived.” He added, “The Polish people are only now starting to come to terms with the war’s traumas, inflicted first by the Germans and Russians, and then exacerbated by the Jewish trauma and the subsequent Russian occupation.” He suggested I read a book on Polish trauma, though, unfortunately, it hasn’t been translated into English.
I slowly continued walking toward the oldest part of the city, understanding that this area had been completely rebuilt after the war. The restoration was beautifully done. Down at the Royal Castle Gardens, I caught a glimpse of the riverbanks of the Wisla. Though I didn’t have time to visit the gardens, they’re now on my list for future visits. I strolled back to my hotel, later heading to a traditional restaurant where I enjoyed a delicious seafood meal.
As I reflected on the day, I couldn’t help but marvel at the contrasts in Warsaw’s urban architecture, which seem to form a new identity for the city. It’s a well-designed architectural fusion of the past, present, and future. Warsaw is a city of resilience, resistance, contradictions, hope, and connection. In its own subtle way, it made me feel at home.
Warsaw and its people are still healing from the wounds of the past. Reconciliation is key to this healing process, and while progress has been made between Poland and Germany over the decades, reconciliation with Russia has never truly begun. The ongoing war in Ukraine only reinforces the Polish people’s gut feeling that Russia can’t be trusted. With Putin’s plans to assault Ukraine dating back to 2008 and his eventual actions, I believe reconciliation between Poland and Russia is unlikely to ever happen. This troubled historical relationship is a major reason why Poland wants Ukraine to win, and I completely understand that sentiment.
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